
Athens Greece
Episode 106 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
This ancient and vibrant city provides the backdrop for host Kathy McCabe's exciting adventure.
The capital of Greece is one of the world’s most popular travel destinations. Host Kathy McCabe pays a must-visit to the Acropolis with an incredible tour guide, tastes classic souvlaki, gets a pair of Greek sandals custom-made by “the Poet Sandalmaker” and takes a breathtaking rail bike ride along the Aegean. This episode is the perfect mix of classic and modern Greek culture.
Dream of Europe is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Athens Greece
Episode 106 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
The capital of Greece is one of the world’s most popular travel destinations. Host Kathy McCabe pays a must-visit to the Acropolis with an incredible tour guide, tastes classic souvlaki, gets a pair of Greek sandals custom-made by “the Poet Sandalmaker” and takes a breathtaking rail bike ride along the Aegean. This episode is the perfect mix of classic and modern Greek culture.
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♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ -Custom, privately-guided travel.
Kensington -- See the world, differently.
♪♪ -I'm Kathy McCabe.
In this series, we'll explore the stunning landscapes, unearth the centuries of history, and discover what makes Europe one of the most captivating continents on Earth.
Join me as we Dream of Europe.
♪♪ ♪♪ -Welcome to Athens.
♪♪ One of the oldest and most captivating cities on Earth.
Once the capital of ancient Greece, Athens is a place that touches all of us -- all of humanity -- because it was the birthplace of democracy, arts, science, philosophy, and of Western civilization itself.
Inhabited since the 11th millennium BCE, today, under the shadow of the Acropolis, Athens is an urban treasure trove for travelers in search of rich history, simple and flavorful cuisine, profound beauty, and a little bit of adventure.
♪♪ My first stop today is the awe-inspiring Acropolis, where I'm meeting tour guide Demetrius Tsiligiannis.
-You're walking in the center of the cradle of Western civilization.
-That's incredible.
The Acropolis is an ancient citadel perched atop the city of Athens, home to the ever impressive Parthenon.
This archaeological site is the cornerstone of ancient Greek civilization.
Built in the fifth century B.C., it was the primary political and religious center in ancient Greece.
Democracy, philosophy, theater, and freedom of expression were born right here.
To this day, all that emerged from this hill provide the intellectual and spiritual foundation for the contemporary world.
♪♪ I think it's one of the most iconic places in the world.
You see photos of the Parthenon everywhere, all the time, and it is incredible to be up here.
-It definitely is, but it's also the most important temple that we have from this glorious period -- the Classical Age.
Almost 20,000 people per day visit this site.
It derives from the word "parthenos", that means "virgin".
As goddess, Athena was a virgin goddess.
The only people who had access to the inside of the temple, the interior would be the high priest and high officials of the city.
Imagine that all of these columns were pure white.
The original color of this marble.
-I can just imagine it.
-There would be an altar where they would sacrifice ceremoniously animals like cattle and goats as well.
There was a huge statue of Athena made of ivory and gold.
-I'm so curious about this statue of Athena.
How tall do you think it was, or do people think it was?
-Around 38, 40-feet high.
-Oh, my God, that's big.
-It was very large.
-The Parthenon evolved with the times.
-Definitely.
We know that in the late fourth century A.D., Christianity became the official religion of the Roman Empire and the only religion accepted.
So this was a temple that was modified into a church dedicated to Virgin Mary.
Afterwards, with the coming of the Ottomans in the 15th century, the church was modified into a mosque.
-I would love to see more.
-The next monument I want to show you is the Erechtheion, this temple dedicated to Poseidon and Athena.
♪♪ Here to the right is the Erechtheion, a temple dedicated both to Poseidon and Athena, and it's a unique temple because it's asymmetrical.
The highlight is definitely the Porch of Maidens.
-They're gorgeous.
-These were priestesses of the Temple of Artemis.
They were considered the most beautiful women in ancient Greece, and the ones giving birth to the greatest warriors.
Yeah, I think it's the second most important monument of the Acropolis.
-What I love about the Porch of Maidens is these beautiful women are holding up the roof.
Kind of like women hold up the world.
-They definitely do.
-[ Laughs ] ♪♪ -Here is the Odeon of Herodes Atticus.
He was governor of the region of Attica during the Roman times in the second century A.D. -Amazing amphitheater.
-Whenever we have these series of arches stacked one on top of the other, we know that it's a building from Roman times.
Think about the aqueducts, the Colosseum... -I recognize them from my time in Italy.
[ Chuckles ] -And we know that this was built as a concert hall back in the day and is still being used as one.
One of the very few monuments that are still being used for their original purpose.
This could accommodate up to 5,000 spectators.
-So if you come to Athens, do they have concerts like in the summer?
-Exactly.
We have great artists who have performed here like Elton John, Sting, Yanni, Frank Sinatra and even the Foo Fighters performed here.
-Oh, really?
I would love to come back and see a performance.
-I know.
-This is the home of Plato and Socrates, and I feel a little bit smarter after our tour.
-That's the goal.
♪♪ -Directly below the Acropolis lies the oldest neighborhood in Athens -- the Plaka.
This area's winding streets are filled with charming shops, cafes, and everyday Greek life.
I'm shopping for Greece's well-known evil eye, said to protect the wearer from bad luck.
I'm one to believe in these things, so I'm not leaving Athens without buying one.
♪♪ I see these everywhere.
-I'm going to find an evil eye to buy.
-Do you like?
-I'm going to try this one.
-That's a Greek color.
That's it -- blue.
-These are the Greek colors.
They're beautiful.
My favorite color is blue.
-Yes, blue.
-So, it's perfect.
Look at that.
It's very delicate.
This is the one I'm getting.
So now I'm protected, right?
-Yeah.
-Do you promise?
-Yes.
-Yes.
Okay.
I feel much better.
Now that I have an evil eye for protection, it is time to try another famous Greek product -- ouzo, an anise-flavored liqueur.
And I found the perfect spot for a drink -- a rooftop bar with a view of the Acropolis.
You have a 360 view up here?
-Yes.
Every day -Of beautiful Athens.
-Yes.
Vasilis Kardaras is the head bartender at 360 Cocktail Bar.
Does everyone in Greece drink ouzo?
Yes, yes.
Ouzo means company and seafood for us.
That's why it is so important for us.
-So it's not after dinner, it's with the dinner?
-Every time.
-With the seafood?
-Yes.
-That's why it is our national drink.
-I can actually smell it from here.
-Yes.
-It smells like black licorice.
And I love black licorice.
-Ouzo is a very sweet spirit.
Um...
It is strong.
-It's 40--40%.
-Oof!
-The alcohol.
-40% alcohol.
So you have to be careful.
So show me how I should drink it.
-We suggest it with some ice and cucumber inside.
Now it becomes white, because of the water and the ice inside.
-Yamas?
-Yamas.
-And then we taste.
-I love it because I love licorice.
It tastes exactly like you're biting into some black licorice.
-Yes.
-I'm going to try a little bit more.
-But you need to take it slow.
-[ Laughs ] Well, here's to Greece...
Here's to beautiful Athens.
Yamas.
-Yamas!
♪♪ The poet-sandal maker, Pantelis Melissinos, is a must-stop for shopping.
His store in the Plaka was opened by his dad, Stavros.
Pantelis has followed in his father's footsteps.
Jackie Kennedy, Sarah Jessica Parker... have all had custom sandals made here, choosing from nearly 30 different styles.
There's only one thing I love more than shopping for shoes, and that's shoe shopping with a dog.
-This is Poi Poi.
He's so happy to see you.
-I have to greet the dog first.
Oh, my God.
I came for a pair of sandals and a dog.
-No, the dog you cannot have.
He is like the greeting committee.
-Oh, Poi Poi, I've got to go talk to your dad about some sandals.
-[ Dog growls ] -I know!
So you're known as the poet sandal maker.
Why is that?
-Because I also write poetry.
-Oh, I love a man who writes a good poem.
-Yeah, because I'm an artist.
All the paintings you see around here are mine.
I studied at Parsons School of Design in New York.
-Oh, wow.
-Yeah.
-And what does it mean to you when you make a pair of sandals?
-Oh, I like it a lot because it's like making a poem to somebody's feet.
I'm very happy when I see people after 20 years wearing the sandals I made 20 years ago earlier.
-You have a lasting legacy.
-And most people hate their feet, but I say you should love your feet because they take you.
-They do.
They take you around the world.
-They took you to Greece and you came to Greece.
-They did!
-Yeah.
-It feels like you put everything you have into your art and your poetry and your sandals.
-It's not just a profession.
It's a passion.
-That's profound.
-Yeah.
-Okay, so I'm ready for my first pair.
How long does it take you to make a pair of sandals?
-We can make them in about an hour.
-Can you make me a pair today?
-Of course.
Come to the workbench.
[ Chuckles ] I think the Theta is going to look really fantastic on your foot.
-I could wear those all summer.
-Yeah.
-You can wear them with almost anything.
So this is the base, and then you're going to customize it for me.
-Yeah.
-I love these sandals.
-You see, it looks really great.
-So you watch how I walk to see what to do.
Right?
-Yeah.
Good.
I see your heel is standing in a little bit.
-Yeah.
This one does.
-But we can correct that.
-Oh, really?
So how do you fix that?
-We have to punch a hole.
-Okay.
-Then this strap is going to go through here and hold your foot in place.
-So these are really customized.
-Yeah, so I'm going back there to punch the holes and I'm coming back like a new hero.
-Good luck.
-Okay.
♪♪ Okeydokey.
-So you made the hole.
-So I punched the hole.
And then I'm going to put some glue here, too.
We're gonna make a sandal sandwich.
We're gonna hammer it down a little bit.
There's shoemaker's hammers.
-Yeah.
-So let's see.
Put your foot here.
-Okay.
Need my foot?
-Yeah.
-Oh, wow.
Nice.
-Let me see.
So walk around a little bit.
Yeah, now definitely your feet are going straight.
-I like it.
-You don't have that problem.
-I bet my back will feel better.
-Yeah.
-We need to put the soles on, right?
-The soles.
Yeah.
-Your assistant is sleeping.
-Oh, yeah, it's... -Poi Poi.
-Poi Poi's asleep, ah?
-I see he doesn't do much work.
[ Both laugh ] -So now we're gonna let this dry for a while and put them together.
I'm gonna read some poem to you.
-Well, that's why I came.
-Yeah, this is from my "Athenian Quatrains."
So it goes like this.
"Apollo's steeds once more ascending.
Here comes the god whose glorious light and warmth can put bad dreams to flight."
-So I will have good dreams in those sandals.
-Exactly.
-All of this shopping has me tired out.
So it's time for a pick-me-up.
And there's nothing better than notoriously strong Greek coffee.
Traditional Greek coffee is a dark roast, finely ground, unfiltered, and prepared in a long-handled pot called a briki.
The sugar ratio can vary widely, from none at all to so thick with sweetness that you could stand a spoon in it.
Oraia Ellas is one of the oldest coffee shops in Athens.
Just off Monastiraki Square, this cafe is like stepping back into a different era.
Opened in 1839, this was the place where 19th-century Athenians would come to debate and exchange news.
Hans Christian Andersen even penned some of his famous fairy tales within these hallowed walls.
One of my favorite things is coffee, and Greece has some of the best.
How do you make Greek coffee?
-The Greek coffee loves to take their time.
-They're slow.
-Yeah, slow.
And for that reason, we prefer to make the Greek coffee on the sand.
-On the sand?
I had no idea.
-Because the sand heat more the Greek coffee.
-And it gives it more heat?
-Yes.
-A really cool way to make coffee.
I might need one of those at home.
[ Both laugh ] Beautiful color.
Mmm!
Should I try some?
-Yes.
-Mmm.
It's very sweet.
-Yes.
[ Laughs ] There's a lot of sugar in there, Giannis.
-Yes, yes, yes.
-Mmm.
It's good.
It's the sugar.
[ Both laugh ] Today I'm on an adventure that is a first for me -- railbiking.
Wow, this is really cool.
Railway draisines were invented in the mid-19th century as a way for railway workers to inspect and maintain the tracks.
Today they're all the rage, allowing people to explore abandoned railways with scenic views you can only access on a railbike.
Just 45 minutes outside of Athens, in a little town called Megara, two Greek entrepreneurs have spent the last 15 years making their dream of railbiking in the Peloponnese a reality.
-This is the first railway that was basically built in Greece.
It's 135 years old.
-Art Filatov and Yuria Sakis work tirelessly with Greek railway officials to save these historic tracks and create something outside the ordinary for visitors to Athens.
This is a really unique experience.
-We are the first who's doing it in Greece.
-What gave you the idea?
-I was just interested in creating a vehicle, pedal-powered, to enjoy the scenery.
I like the industrial heritage.
-Can they do it other places in the world?
-Oh, of course, it's getting quite popular across the world.
It's new in the U.S. as well, but it gets very popular.
-Sustainable tourism.
You're reusing these train tracks.
-Exactly.
In this way, we're preserving those historical facilities for further generations.
-Yeah.
So, you make these.
You produce these railbikes.
-Yeah.
We call it railbike [indistinct].
The most challenging part in constructing railbike is how do you go on those rusty railways without derailing.
-That's a good -- that's a good thing to be cautious of.
-So I've got plastic wheels, which they are imitating the actual railway wheel.
So it's just smaller diameter.
And I've got double wheels.
-I see, there's two.
-Yeah.
Because it's hard for one tiny wheel to keep the friction.
-And you know, it's not scary.
We're right on the cliff side, but it feels very secure.
So even people who might be afraid of heights, it's really quite pleasant, yeah.
-It's probably the safest extreme sport.
-It is.
It is.
-It's actually safer than the real biking on the road.
-Well, this is actually very easy.
Any age, most physical abilities, you can be able to do this.
-It takes minimal effort.
You still need to pedal, but I think everyone can do it, and you have to go slow to enjoy the scenery.
-Look at these views.
They're to die for.
-There's an island right there called Agistri.
It used to be like a capital for all pirates.
Full of pirates, this place was.
-It's a beautiful spot for a pirate ship.
-You know what, the most famous pirate in Greece was Varvakis.
And this historical figure actually was inspiration for "Pirates of the Caribbean."
-Wow.
So I keep seeing telephone poles along the rail line here.
-Yeah.
I just want to show you something.
It's from the World War II, and this is like, -probably the first... -Let's see.
-...uh, mobile phone.
So, a railway worker... -Hello?
-Used to -- Yeah.
In case of incidents... -How do you say, yassas?
-We say [ speaking Greek ].
[ Laughs ] Yeah.
-Okay.
-There's a just plug here.
You plug in and you report in.
Hello, honey!
Can you take those potatoes out of oven?
It's a disaster!
-[ Laughs ] Wow.
The things you see along the way.
-Yes.
You can discover a lot of things in those railways.
-What's that over there?
-It's a fish farm for sea bass and sea bream.
Mediterranean fish, quite lovely.
I love it.
-Wow, this is really cool.
-Down there, there is a road which has been used for more than 3,000 years.
-That's a long time.
-Yes.
Spartans used to use it.
And for the first time in your life, Kathy... -Yes.
-You're not a passenger -- You're actually driving your railway.
-I'm driving the train.
My grandfather was a railway engineer.
-Well, there you go.
-So he's probably very proud of me.
Can you toot the horn?
[ Whistle blows ] [ Laughs ] This is the most unique train experience I've ever had.
I love it.
The Greek pirate Ioannis Varvakis is also the benefactor of the largest food market in Athens.
Seeing a need for a central shopping area, he donated a building to the city to be used by Athenians from all walks of life to come together.
Celebrity chefs to the yaya, or grandmothers, from down the street -- they all get their goods in the market or the many shops that surround it.
Today I'm meeting my friend Ariadne Loukakou to sample some of the Greek tastes here.
Ariadne, I'm having the best time in Athens.
There's a surprise around every corner.
-Isn't this, like, the most lively place in the city?
-Oh, it is.
There's all kinds of energy.
What's inside?
-You have the fish market, the meat market, the vegetable market, spice market from the other side.
-Everything you need.
-You can find everything here directly from the producers.
So you know exactly where they come from.
-I love that, and it's so rare in today's world.
-Yes, I really want to show you an herb store.
It looks like Harry Potter's store.
-Sounds good to me.
What a store you have!
-Yes.
Welcome.
This is the temple.
The temple of spices.
It's almost one century old.
From my grandfather.
-He started it.
-Yes.
I am the third generation and we're preparing the fourth now.
-It makes me want to cook.
-It does.
-Is there anything special that's produced in Greece?
-We have sea salt.
We collect it from rocks.
Oh, my gosh!
-From Tenaro.
-Tenaro.
Have you been there?
-Yes.
It's incredible.
-Can I try some?
-Yes, of course.
-It's like crystallized.
-Yeah.
Oh, it's beautiful.
-Mm.
-Do you make some mixes of spices?
-Yes.
This is one of my best.
-What's it called?
-It's called the Aegean.
-Mmm!
I just want to dive in there.
-Smells great.
-It is for soups and for fish.
-I think I'll take a little bit of that home.
-Okay.
-So I can remember the smells of this incredible store and our shopping trip.
I have never seen anything like this.
Sausages, garlic, peppers, everywhere.
-This is an Armenian delicatessen, and these are sausages.
In Greek, they call them pastirma.
And it's made of different kinds of meats.
-And this is popular in Athens?
-This is very popular.
And this was a neighborhood, actually, where different ethnicities would have different stores.
-But this is like a crossroads, this neighborhood -- -Exactly.
-...of every culture, just like Greece is a bit of a crossroads.
-Here you have the best souvlaki in town.
-Really?
-Meet Tasos.
-Tasos.
It's a pleasure.
-He's the man.
-Nice to meet you.
-What is souvlaki?
-Souvlaki is basically a bamboo skewer... -Uh-huh.
-...with small pieces of meat.
-So, how is your souvlaki different?
What's special?
-What about the charcoal?
-It comes from Mount Athos, you know?
-Mount Athos.
Yes.
-Yeah.
I have a friend there who, they make it with a traditional way to make the wooden charcoal.
How you build the [indistinct], how you burn them without fire, without flame.
-So it gives it a special flavor.
-Yes.
It rises much better temperature.
It keeps it steady for a much longer time than other kinds of wood.
-Alright.
I'd like to try some.
-Yes.
-Whoa.
-This is the souvlaki.
-So I take the bread, and this is the meat.
Tomato, and then I need to get the onion.
It's not...
It's going to be messy.
-Yeah.
Ready?
-It is.
-It's supposed to be, though, right?
-Mmm!
-I prefer them separated.
Grab a... -Oh!
This is delicious.
So, I've heard that Greeks have been eating souvlaki since ancient times.
-From the really old times.
This is the Greek street food.
-And the spices are incredible.
-It's light.
Basic spice with the beef meat is the black pepper.
-Mm-hm.
-Cumin.
-Cumin.
Yeah.
-Yeah.
-Mm-hmm.
-Garlic.
-Mmm.
-And a bit of ouzo.
-Ouzo?
-Yeah.
Because it gives the aniseed.
-Your throat feels very warm.
-Yes.
-Just like ouzo.
-Yes.
-Oh, my God.
That's incredible.
Thank you for this incredible Athens experience.
I'm going to have a little more.
Is that okay?
-Of course.
-The last thing on my Athens bucket list is listening to some vibrant Greek music.
What is going on here?
[ Lively music playing ] ♪♪ -Hey!
♪♪ ♪♪ [ Cheers and applause ] -[ Shouting in Greek ] -As I wrap up my visit to Athens, I'm in awe of this city's timeless allure.
Walking in the footsteps of ancient philosophers, marveling at the Parthenon's grandeur, and adventuring along the seaside, I have fallen in love with this city of the gods and goddesses.
-"Dream of Europe" is made possible by... -At Regent Seven Seas Cruises, we believe that personal space is essential to the luxury travel experience.
With no more than 732 guests, our ships allow you to explore the world and discover the freedom of having space at sea.
♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ -Custom, privately guided travel.
Kensington -- See the world, differently.
-For more about visiting Europe, additional videos, and a companion travel guide, visit dreamofeurope.com/tv.
Follow "Dream of Europe" on Instagram, YouTube, and TikTok.
♪♪
Dream of Europe is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television